Spring in the Native Plant Garden

Our plants tell us when spring arrives. Suddenly, buds swell and tiny leaves appear on bare branches. Perennials get green sprouts at the base and leafy spikes appear from hidden bulbs. But there is often a false spring in February, with more winter and freezing weather still to come.

Here are some things to do in the spring native plant garden:

• Enjoy: Rejoice with your plants as the first signs of spring yield to an exuberant energy display. New plants are slow to start and increase dramatically in size their second year in the ground.

• Forget the fertilizer: Native plants do not need fertilizer, which simply encourages lush growth and shortens the lifespan of our natives. Save your money, energy and time.

• Trim and prune: Wait to remove frostbitten branches until you are sure they are dead. Perennials and winter-deciduous shrubs are pruned right before new growth begins. Shrubs that bloom in the spring are pruned after they bloom. For a natural look, most shrubs need just a light shaping or nothing at all. If you have to prune to keep a plant small, the plant has probably not been put in the right place. Many bushes can be pruned to be a small tree if you prefer that look. On shrubs, you can remove lower branches that drag on the ground and perhaps discover a tip that has rooted, ready to grow a new plant. Always use selective pruning by cutting back to a main branch or to the base of the plant; cutting just the tips or shearing a plant usually just encourages weird growth. Some Internet site have good information on pruning natives:  http://www.yerbabuenanursery.com/Pruning_Calendar.php, http://www.laspilitas.com/garden/howto/pruning.htm, http://www.cnps.org/cnps/grownative/tips/pruning03-levin.php, http://www.cnps.org/cnps/grownative/pruning-kipping.php

Plant: Although fall is the best time to plant natives, early spring planting is successful if plants can get established before the heat of summer. Since the roots have not yet penetrated into the surrounding soil, check often for moisture near the base of the plant to prevent the root ball from drying out. This happens even though the native soil appears moist. Also protect new plants from deer. If the grower used high nitrogen fertilizer, the plant will be a tasty treat for deer even if it is labeled “deer resistant.”

• Warm season grasses: New green blades of warm season grasses, such as Deer grass (Muhlenbergia rigens), start growing in the spring. Remove old thatch selectively or cut back one-third of the height every few years. Clumps can be divided and replanted. Keep them watered.

• Seed wildflowers: We scatter wildflower seeds before the first rain of fall, but you can still do this in February or early March. Flowering may be delayed and you will need to water when there is no rain. Wildflowers can return year after year. Unfortunately, grasses, clover and other weeds also show up. After a few years you will learn to recognize the seedling stage of your desired plants and can weed out the worst of the invaders.

• Weed:  It’s easiest to remove weeds while they are small. Cutting off the tops of annual weeds with a scuffle hoe is adequate, but perennial weeds need to have the taproot removed. Our native Bittercress has charm, but failing to remove it before the seeds have matured results in seeds popping out annoyingly when you touch the plant.

• Mulch: Wait until the ground warms up to add mulch around your plants. A 2-inch layer will conserve moisture and keep the roots cool when summer temperatures arrive. Be sure to keep the mulch back from the base of the plant to avoid diseases. Some plants form their own mulch with their natural leaf drop.

Irrigate: During dry spells, check the moisture of your soil by digging down about 6 inches or pushing a long screwdriver to the depth where it meets resistance. Water when the soil is dry, especially on recent plantings. Deep soaking is best. Spring is the time to examine your irrigation system to ready it for summer. Although many two-year-old native plants need little or no water, some plants look better with water. Reestablish basins that you want to continue using and expand the water coverage on individual plants that have increased in circumference. If using drip, replace broken emitters and purge lines.  Once we found colonized earwigs in the valve assembly were collecting on the filter screen, blocking the flow of water.

• Observe: Observing is the most pleasurable task of all. Visit your garden often to see the changes that are taking place. Touch unfolding leaves, feel the stems and bark, smell freshly dug soil, savor the perfume of flowers, listen to the hum of insects and the calls of birds, look for signs of animals that have visited, and see tiny details that a casual observer would miss.

• Journal: Jot down some of your observations, such as when plants bloomed, which plants thrived and where you need to make changes. A journal isn’t essential, but it is interesting to review and provides ideas for future action.

With planning, we can have a progression of blooms to watch all spring. Flowering bulbs, native irises, manzanita, flowering currant, redbud, poppies, lupine, penstemon, sage, ceanothus, elderberry, summer grasses and others all form a parade of delight from spring into summer.

 

Darlene Ward
Darlene’s Diggings
dward@cebridge.net
http://pages.suddenlink.net/darleneward/

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Landscaping with Black Oak

The Black Oak (Quercus kelloggii) is one of the most spectacular plants native to the Sierra Nevada to watch in the spring. After their leaves unfurl in shades of pink, red, and burgundy, they turn a bright green which could be where the term “spring green” came from. This burst of color is especially beautiful right after a rain: the bright green presents a dramatic contrast to the wet, dark bark of the trunk and branches. The leaves mature to deep green and very large with generous lobes, tipped with a bristles.

The stretching, waif-like trees that develop when growing close to other tall trees don’t captivate me as much as those that are given space to develop the massive trunks that support broad, rounded canopies. These magnificent oaks provide beautiful, dappled shade, and due to the high branching pattern, under a Black Oak is a perfect spot to place a sitting area. Of course, as with all of our sensitive, native Oaks, it is important to minimize any disturbance of the roots. The natural mulch from the leaves that drop in the fall makes a lovely surface on which to set a couple of comfortable chairs.

For spring color or additional interest under a Black Oak, consider planting low-growing natives that require little to no supplemental irrigation once established. Some of my favorites are creeping Oregon Grape (Berberis repens or Berberis nervosa), Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva ursi), Pacific Coast iris (Iris douglasiana PCH Hybrids), Hummingbird Sage (Salvia spathacea), and Alumroot (Heuchera species). Some fabulous, larger plants that are compatible with Oaks are Flowering Currant (Ribes sanguineum) and Coffeeberry (Rhamnus ilicifolia and Rhamnus crocea). Place the plants along the edge of the canopy, at least 10 feet away from the trunk, where they will receive some sun exposure.

If you aren’t blessed with a Black Oak on your property and you’d like to plant one, look for a spot that will be shaded from the afternoon sun by either larger trees or a building until the tree reaches about 20 feet in height. The north side of a building is frequently a good spot. Black Oaks are generally slow-growing, but well worth the wait. They provide year-round interest and support a great variety of native wildlife by providing food, places for nesting and food storage.

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Manzanita Blossoms, Miner’s Lettuce and Morels

I’m really feeling the plants response to the growing daylight that we’re receiving as the first day of spring approaches. The Buckeyes have leafed out, many plum blossoms are showing, the green grass is getting taller, and many seedlings have started their annual ascent to flower and seed. The progression of spring is a favorite time for observation for me when new insights occur as I look deeper.

Manzanita Blossoms

Manzanita Blossoms

This year I’ve been studying the earliest of the flowers: Alder catkins in January, Bay laurel in February (unfortunately most got quite frosted and may not make many bay nuts), and California Cardamine in March (tasty greens). And yet at my place at 2,400 ft. it may as well be January as the cold and rain does persist and keep things mostly dormant. But I do honor the arrival of Manzanita blossoms and Miner’s Lettuce. One could make a respectable salad of just these two plants. I really appreciate and love miner’s lettuce. In late winter it is the most nutritious food to rival the healthy green power foods available in the health food store and it is so abundant. I can browse in the warm winter sun on all fours emulating a ruminant contemplating this grand nutritional gift from the earth. I come inside with a dark green tongue. What nutrition is in this plant? Beyond an abundant supply of vitamin C it is hard to say. But it is in the Purslane family and Purslane has been shown to contain some of the Omega-3 fatty acids. Maybe miner’s lettuce has more to offer, and it feels like it does.

Crushed Manzanita Blossoms

Crushed Manzanita Blossoms

For thousands of years before the FDA, feeling that it tastes beneficial is how we got by. I have been watching my biggest miner’s lettuce patch slowly diminish in the needle duff. And I am reminded that my Maidu friend Farrel said it likes to be burned off occasionally. I think I will burn the needles in the fall on my best patch. I’ll have a hose nearby and do it before the first big rains but right before a rainstorm to assure the ground doesn’t ignite after I’m gone. I plan to collect seed as well. I enjoy really observing them: tough, beautiful shiny black seeds with an indentation on one side (hence the name Claytonia perfoliata). I’ll need to collect the seeds quickly or they’ll fall out of their singular chambers soon after they mature. There are only a few flowers for each stem so I won’t be gathering multitudes unless I’m really lucky. I will plant them very early, either before the rains or in a dry spell in early winter. I will disturb the ground a bit and bury them very lightly. Probably try to establish some in my garden as a cover crop. I am always so envious of my friends who have it thick in their garden all winter.

Morel Diversity

Morel Diversity

Looking forward to the spring mushroom season of course, several workshops are planned to continue the fungus education work I do (See www.yubawatershedinstitute.org for details). I am entranced by the forms of the Morel: fat large naturals, giant late greens, stocky black burn Morels, and tall blonde landscape Morels. I am leaving the taxonomy to the geneticists as it is incredibly variable. It is entirely possible that the form is related to the substrate. The common thread is all the proper Morchella species and varieties (having the classic pits and ridges) are edible. Beware of the morel spawn kits for sale. We have a pretty good consensus among mycologists that they are mostly gimmick. Cultivation of morels is possible these days but the kit only offers a spawn that may as easily die as live. One is better off with local strains sprinkled in the backyard and creating your own habitat. The two best ways to make Morel habitat are laying fresh conifer mulch (chips) in proximity to a garden or moist area. The nutrients are a great lure for the blonde landscape morel in March-June depending on your elevation. I have seen landscape Morels from Anaheim to Truckee. The other technique is to simply burn the forest lightly (on your own land!). This can be a nice way to remove some brush while attracting the black burn Morels to your land. The black Morels prefer some altitude and really fruit best above 2,500 ft. I will end this post with a little quote from Frank Cook who encourages us to “eat something wild every day”.

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Early Spring Foraging

The snow has thawed and the abundance of spring is beginning to show itself! Today was a glorious sunny day, and Amara and I went out to take a look at what was happening the warmer climate of Penn Valley.  Our friend Margo greeted us with a smile and we took a short walk to the luscious green carpet growing under some oaks.

Amara quickly spotted the miner’s lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata) and started chomping away at these sweet succulent, greens.  Miner’s lettuce is one of the most popular foraged foods around here – its yummy, abundant, and its structure makes it pretty darn easy to identify (it kind of looks like a green “gold pan” with a white flower in the middle where a chunk of gold might be).  Miner’s lettuce is tasty, has a pleasant consistency, and is a good source of Vitamin C to boot.

Near miner’s lettuce you will often find chickweed – another early spring sweet and succulent treat.   We found some delicious tendrils of chickweed (Stellaria media) in the patch and filled our mouths and our baskets.   Chickweed is cooling, rich in calcium and vitamin C, and is a great topical treatment for diaper rash and other hot skin irritations.

We moved out of the cool shade and found a nice spot in the warm early spring sun, carefully avoiding the spikes of a prolific young thistle.   The small young leaves tasted kind of green but also had a hint of sweetness. Inspired by Linda Runyon and her tales of thistle-eating, I took some home to see if those spikes would perhaps soften in a ghee saute.

Amara, like most all 3-year olds, loves to cook and thus took charge of sauteing the greens when we got home.  She made it clear that she was not going to eat the spiky leaves, just cook them.  But of course, you can’t resist trying what you cook yourself, so she ventured her hand into the thistle greens and took a bite….

As you see, she was not impressed.  I ate a few myself.  The young spikes on the leaves softened a little bit, but I made sure to REALLY chew thoroughly before swallowing, because the spikes were still, well, not the kind of texture you want to send down your throat.   The taste was similar to a collard.  Next time, I’ll wait until the leaves are bigger and then cut off the spikes before cooking!

As far as the chickweed and miner’s lettuce, they were prepared as a fresh salad and were quite delicious!

-Rachel

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Pressing Acorns into Oil

Pressing Acorn Oil

Pressing Acorn Oil

Matt has been dreaming and scheming about making acorn oil for the last several years. The oil is used traditionally in Spain and Morocco, and he was curious what kind of oil we could get from our local oak varieties. He finally bought an oil press this winter, determined to see what we can draw from our local and abundant acorn supply. His first run with this hand-press did not work so well, so he invited his Buckeye friend Stephen to come over and share his oil pressing experience.

The hand press definitely requires some finesse! But once Stephen and Matt got it going, a scrumptious roasted nut smell filled the air and beautiful golden oil became dripping out. The first batch was made with Canyon Oak acorn (moderate in tannins). I tasted a few drops and it was like golden nutty melted butter! It was hard to taste it without making some noise about how yummy it was.

As I type, Steven and Matt are continuing to press acorn oil using a few different acorn varieties, Tan Oak and Black Oak. They comment on each flavor as if they were in Napa tasting wine. They also chat about the nature of the world, and every now and then interject with a “now we got it!” or “here we go!” or “that is SWEET” when the oil comes dripping out in a nice flow. They talk about the ease in which we go to the store and buy a large container of cooking oil, and what would happen if for some reason that supply was no longer available to us so abundantly.

Stephen & Matt

Stephen & Matt

The Tan Oak (Lithocarpus densiflorus) is said to have the most oil (30%), but also has high tannins. Tannins or tannic acid is present in our diets in small amounts (that slight pucker you may get from eating walnuts, cranberries or pomegranates) but in acorns it is so high that you must leach it out. Luckily tannins are water-soluble and the leaching process will produce nut meats without the bitterness. Tannins are nature’s preservatives and the acorns with high amounts can be stored for a longer period and most plants and trees have them to help protect them from insects, fire and bacteria.

Knowing that Canyon oak has moderate tannins we decided to not leach the acorn before pressing the oil out and to our luck they did not taste bitter! The Tan Oak however did have some bitterness to it. So we added water to the oil and decanted it off, hopefully “leaching” the tannins away—It worked somewhat – more experiments are needed.

I must admit, it sure is handy going to the store (or someplace like Chaffin Farms) to buy a large bottle of oil to use generously for every meal. Matt and Steven have been working at this oil pressing for several hours today and we have about 4 ounces of oil to show for it. Sure, some of this time was experimentation with trial and error, but you get my point about the time involved to press this precious oil by hand!

But I must say…. taking an afternoon to explore the treasures of our local food shed and build community around processing food is like nothing you can buy at the store. And the deep appreciation we have for every drop of that precious oil is nothing we could have experienced had we purchased it from someone else. And this is amazing acorn oil! It is made from the essence of our bioregion, rich in nutrients and indigenous to this land.

We have much more experimentation to do to on the processing of acorn oil, but we are excited to have begun the process!

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